If you do not know me, then here’s one fact: I am all about go big or go home. When Kayla announced she was bringing in Viscose Crepe Jersey - I had to know more! Viscose Crepe Jersey was described as being similar to Rayon Spandex, but without pilling. Sign me up! I ordered at least one yard of each color to jump start my spring wardrobe with 10 new short sleeve tops. The original idea was to make 10 Greenstyle Green Tees, which is a free pattern that I’ve used several times before. Instead, I realized I had a stock pile of shirt patterns I had never tried. I decided I would use 10 different free PDF shirt patterns. All of these patterns were new to me, with the exception of the Green Tee. I chose patterns that had inset, cap, or dolman. Many sizes will use just one yard of fabric for patterns that do not have an inset sleeve.
I am 5’8” with a rectangle body shape. I typically have to blend out for my waist and hips unless a pattern is relaxed. I will add length as needed, but was surprised that I didn’t need to for most of these patterns. In fact, if you’re shorter than me, consider shortening some of these patterns.
In the following blog I will give you stats on the patterns, how to get them, and what future alterations I would make should I chose to make the pattern again. I did my best to stick to the original pattern and construction techniques. I would expect a similar result from other fabrics with this type of drape like Modal, Bamboo Spandex, and Rayon Spandex. These will, of course, look different on other body shapes, but perhaps you will find a new pattern you would like to try. Listed in no particular order other than when pictures were taken - Here we go!
Here is a quick chart comparing the patterns if you don't want to read all the way through:
Greenstyle Creations Green Tee
Stats: It is described as a semi-fitted short or long sleeve shirt with both a scoop and a V-neck option. The pattern recommends any knit fabric with at least 50% stretch 2 ways, 4 ways preferred. It comes in sizes XXS – 3XL. It is drafted for a height of 5’7”. The seam allowance used is 3/8”.
How to get it: Join the FB group and check the announcements Greenstyle Creations-Sewing & Pattern Group
My make: I like Greenstyle PDFs and that many options are included. I have used this pattern several times. For this version I used the black viscose crepe jersey. I made a small bust and blended out to a medium waist and hip. I added ½” length. This is a perfect basic tee and I require no further alterations. I particularly favor the V-neck option. It is a wardrobe staple and after testing out nine other new patterns, it remains a favorite! I highly recommend!
iCandy Handmade DIY Fun Summer Tee
Stats: It is described as a fitted tee with the shoulder seam dropped down a few inches to the front with a side split that has the front higher than the back. The pattern does not recommend fabrics, but it is a knit pattern. Here is the kicker, the PDF is just one size: Medium. The designer does tell you how to grade for other sizes. All I did was use my trusty Green Tee pattern and traced my fit, then transferred the armscye. Height is unknown. The seam allowance used is 1/4”.
How to get it: Tutorial and pattern are on the designer’s website iCandy Handmade.
My make: I am sorry if you are disappointed to find just one size provided. I needed to try this pattern because I can see future makes with a different front and back fabric, for this version I used the black chambray viscose crepe jersey. I think this will be a useful scrap buster. I know Green Tee fits just right so this one did too. Because my front and back fabric was the same color, I decided to make the shoulder seam stand out with a lace accent and some little flower buttons. It is a unique result that I am loving! I am curious to see someone else give this one a try!
Blank Slate Blanc T Shirt
Stats: It is described as a two piece shirt with draped cap sleeves. The pattern is for knits. It comes in sizes XXS – 3X. It is drafted for a height of 5’6”. The seam allowance used is 1/2”.
How to get it: Join the FB group and check the announcements: Blank Slate Patterns Group
My make: I appreciate the neck to hem length chart. That helped me decide if there was any need to adjust length. I decided I did not need to. I made a medium bust and blended out to a large waist and between the medium and large hips line. For fabric I used the blush viscose crepe jersey. I wanted to try this pattern because of the lovely neckline finish. I did not want to band it. I found the original neckline construction unique. I have never attempted a woven bias finish on a knit. I have done woven on woven, but this was a first for me! First attempt, I used store bought woven bias tape, but it may have been too heavy for the fabric. Despite molding, stretching, steaming, and washing – I could not get the neckline to lay flat. This method may work best on a stable knit. Second attempt, I made a home made woven bias tape. I think the results were actually worse. So, I surrendered for my third attempt and came up with a different approach to get the original look.
Here is what worked for me: similar to V-neck construction, I stay stitched the scooped section of the front. Then, I lined the entire front bodice neckline with fusible knit interfacing on the wrong side. Next, I measured the neckline and cut a 1 ¼” strip at 85% of the length using the same Viscose Jersey Crepe. Connecting the short ends, I then quartered and serged right side to right side. I did understitch before topstitching to ensure it would stay put and I would not have to go back and fix it again. Tada! I put on my finished top – pleased with the neckline, but found the sleeves flair out. No drape, but flair. I reshaped the sleeves so they no longer flair. If I use this pattern again, then I will add length to the sleeves. If the sleeves appear uneven in the pictures, they are not - the top was tilted.
Deer and Doe Plantain
Stats: It is described as a T-shirt fitted at the shoulders and flaring at the hips, with optional elbow patches. Short, long and 3/4 sleeves included in the pattern. The suggested fabric is lightweight jersey knit (cotton, rayon, linen, wool) with 40 to 50% stretch. It comes in sizes 34 – 52. It is drafted for a height of 5’6”. The seam allowance used is 3/8”.
How to get it: Download from their website Deer and Doe Plantain.
My Make: I did a 40 bust blended to 42 waist and hips using the cargo green viscose crepe jersey. I compared this pattern to the Green Tee and decided not to add any length. I made no further adjustments and do not see the need to in the future. This is a new favorite of mine! It is a perfect scoop version of the Green Tee V-neck. I highly recommend!
DIBY Club Anything But Basic Women’s T-Shirt
Stats: It is described as a relaxed fit shirt with options of a high crew, low crew, or scoop neck. Also short, elbow, ¾, or long sleeves included. The suggested fabric is at least 50% horizontal stretch and at least 30% vertical stretch. It comes in sizes 00 – 36. It is drafted for a height of 5’5”. The seam allowance used is 3/8”.
How to get it: Download from their website DIBY Club ABB Women's T-Shirt.They have a FB group you can join: DIBY Club The Do It Better Yourself Club
My Make: I like that many options are included. DIBY Club does a very nice job with their tutorials and patterns for anyone new to sewing. They make it easy to make personal adjustments. I can tell you my top is somewhere between a 6 and a 10 depending on where I blended my sizes. I chose the low crew option, this top truly is a relaxed t-shirt. I used the oatmeal viscose crepe jersey.
If I chose to make this one again, I would want to narrow the shoulders by 1/2”. I have almost a horned appearance where the seam is hitting my shoulders. I would also shorten the sleeve, make the neck band narrower, and shorten the bodice - unless I’m intending to wear the top over leggings. When pulled all the way down, I have full butt coverage. I highly recommend this pattern for anyone new to sewing!
MariaDenmark Kristen Tee
Stats: It is described as a boat neckline t-shirt with short sleeves. Negative ease is in the bust and a looser fit is over the waist and hip. The suggested fabric is knit fabric containing elastane (spandex). It comes in sizes XS – 4XL. It is drafted for a height of 5’6”. The seam allowance is NOT included.
How to get it: Subscribe to the Newsletter: HERE There is a FB group you can join: MariaDenmark – Sewing patterns and fitting
My Make: Do not let the lack of a seam allowance scare you off. Most of us are not using straight sizes every time anyway, right? I blended a medium bust out to a large waist and hips. First I created my blended shape. Then, I taped a mechanical pencil (no lead out) to a pen and measured the difference between the two – 3/8” for a 3/8” seam allowance. The pen traced the new cut line as I drew the pencil along the original line. You can customize your own seam allowance and hems. Just make sure you are drawing them down correctly.
As you can see by the armscye, I made a mistake by not turning them correctly and had to correct it. Originally, I planned to add length, but decided the length fits the style. I love the neckline finish. This technique was also new to me and I appreciated the different detail while working through this project. I can easily dress up this top style. I highly recommend! This one was made with the watermelon chambray viscose crepe jersey.
Laela Jeyne Mica T-Shirt
Stats: It is described as a Oversized low v-neck tee with short or long sleeves.The suggested fabric is fabrics with excellent recovery and at least 50% horizontal. It comes in sizes XXS – 4XL. It is drafted for a height of 5’5”. The seam allowance is 3/8”.
How to get it: Consent to e-mails from Laela Jeyne: HERE
My Make: I like that the PDF has two different bra cup size options. After looking at the pattern, I decided no blending was needed and I made a straight medium using the A-B cups front bodice piece. It is accurately described as being oversized. I do not typically wear this style. I do think it looks cute knotted! This one was made with the robin's egg chambray viscose crepe jersey.
Striped Swallow Designs Cloud 9 Tee
Stats: It is described as a relaxed fit dolman sleeve top with a lowered neckline and curved hem with both long and short sleeve options.The suggested fabric is knit fabrics such as bamboo/spandex, single or double brushed poly, rayon spandex french terry, sweater knits, medium weight cotton jersey, cotton/spendex, ITY, modal, or rayon spandex.. It comes in sizes XS - XXXL. It is drafted for a height of 5’5”. The seam allowance is 3/8”.
How to get it: Join the FB group and check the announcements: Striped Swallow Designs Sewing Group
My Make: I chose to make a straight medium based on my bust measurement. I decided it was long enough and did not add any length. It has butt coverage even then. I absolutely love this freebie! It may not be a standard basic tee, but I think it is super cute and is quite flattering. I highly recommend! This one was made with the Del Monte mauve viscose crepe jersey.
Life Sew Savory Women’s Fitted Tee
Stats: It is described as a long fitted tee with a scoop neck and short sleeves.The pattern does not recommend fabrics, but it is a knit pattern. It comes in sizes XS - XXL. Height is unknown. The seam allowance is 3/8”.
How to get it: There is a tutorial on the website Life Sew Savory and you can get the pattern through bluprint. There is a FB group you can join: Life Sew Savory Pattern Group
My Make: I blended a medium bust into a large waist and hip. It appeared long enough – it was designed to possibly be used as a layering piece. I found it is a little too long for my preference. The pattern is quite simple to follow with minimal options. This pattern has my favorite sleeve. It’s cute, short, and fitted! Once some length is removed, I will make this one again! This one was made with the light heather grey viscose crepe jersey.
Winter Wear Designs Cross Hem Tee
Stats: It is described as a semi-fitted short, ¾, or long sleeve shirt with a scoop neck and v-neck option. There is a bottom cross hem detail. The suggested fabric is a main fabric with at least 30% stretch and bindings with at least 50% stretch. It comes in sizes 00 - 24. Height is 5’4” – 5’6”. The seam allowance is 3/8”.
How to get it: Join the FB group and check the announcements: Winter Wear Designs Fun
My Make: I made a size 6 bust blended out to a size 8 waist and hip scoop neck. It appeared long enough, therefore no length was added. By the time I started clipping the sleeve to the bodice, I could tell there was too much ease in the sleeve cap. Still, I tried it. My original sleeves had severe puckering. I conservatively removed ¼” from the sleeve cap and still had puckering. I removed another ¼” and no longer have any puckering. The shoulder area is a little too narrow for me. The bodice is too fitted for the cross hem style, in my opinion. If I were to make this pattern again, I would do the following: Widen the shoulder by ¼ - ½”, trace another pattern’s armscye, and use that other pattern’s sleeve. I would also size up on my waist and hips. The cross hem detail is cute and the construction was fun! I used the denim blue viscose crepe jersey.
My closet is now full of desperately needed basic t-shirts. I have some new favorite patterns to use too! I hope you found this information useful. Perhaps compel you to try a freebie you have not used yet? I might consider doing this project again for summer tank tops, if Kayla brings in another fun new fabric.
If you try any of these patterns out this month with your Surge stash make sure and enter it in the June sewing contest in the Facebook Group!
9 comments
Leave a comment
This is a great post! I really love seeing all these tees lined up next to each other with your thoughts on them! Thank you! I haven’t made any of them, but will definitely after reading this.
So enjoyed seeing all the trees and your comments!!!!
Wonderful reviews! Question about the winter wear tee – where did you remove 1/2” on the sleeve? From the middle or each side?
this basic tees looks cool, i have also purchased some next 3600 basic t-shirt from
https://www.ustradeent.com/unisex-cotton-t-shirt-1923.html